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The Kid Should See This

The Physics of Surfing

Whether or not you realize it, surfers are masters of complicated physics. The science of surfing begins as soon as a board first hits the water. Surfers may not be thinking about weather patterns in the Pacific, tectonic geology or fluid mechanics, but the art of catching the perfect wave relies on all these things and more.

What creates waves as they approach the beach and how does a surfer catch and ride one? This TED-Ed by Nick Pizzo, directed by Wonderlust, explores The Physics of Surfing.

gravity's influence on waves
surfing a barrel wave
What’s it like inside a barrel wave? Get a glimpse with this surfboard-mounted camera. Plus: Surfing the ‘World’s Heaviest Waves’ and The Complicated History of Surfing.

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